Pinhole Camera

A pinhole camera is a very simple camera with no lens and a single very small aperture. Simply explained, it is a light-proof box with a small hole in one side. Light from a scene passes through this single point and projects an inverted image on the opposite side of the box. Cameras using small apertures and the human eye in bright light both act like a pinhole camera.

The smaller the hole, the sharper the image, but the dimmer the projected image. Optimally, the size of the aperture should be 1/100 or less of the distance between it and the screen.

A pinhole camera's shutter is usually manually operated because of the lengthy exposure times, and consists of a flap of some light-proof material to cover and uncover the pinhole. Typical exposures range from 5 seconds to hours and sometimes days.

A common use of the pinhole camera is to capture the movement of the sun over a long period of time. This type of photography is called Solargraphy.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinhole_camera

Directions for making a mint can pinhole camera:

• Tin can of choice
  
• ISO film 100 or 200 (might want to experiment to see what you prefer)
  
• Empty film cartridges (photo stores will generally give these to you)
  
• Flat black spray paint
  
• Very small sewing needle
  
• Steel wool
  
• Utility knife
  
• Opaque black tape (some photo tape - I’m trying electrical tape)
  
• Scissors
  
• Pliers (to help create film entry and exit slits)
  

• Tape off all areas of the tin you don't want painted. (i.e interior edges of the lid). Then spray paint tin of your choice with flat black spray paint.
  
• Drill a pinhole into the top of the tin with very small sewing needle.
  
• Cut two small slits (a little wider than the film itself) at the sides of the tin with a utility knife and open these up to allow film to slide through. These should be just slightly larger than the film and near the back of the tin.
  
• Feed film through the tin (emulsion side up- light brown side).
  
• Cut the leader of unexposed film off and feed through the tin to outside. Then tape with black tape to the tail of the empty film cartridge. Attach the film cartridges to the side of the tin using the black tape.
  
• Cut a piece of cardboard and cover with the same black tape. You can be elaborate and add ‘flaps’ (extra tape that over hangs the cardboard with a little bit of the sticky side exposed so it will stick to the tin when released to keep all light out). You can also add barriers (more cardboard to surround the cardboard shutter). Again do whatever you can to ensure light will not get inside the box when you aren’t taking a photo. Attach this with tape to the tin to cover your pinhole when needed.
  
• Tape ALL the edges of film canisters with black tape. Also, make sure you tape the inside of the tin where the hinges are.
  
• Next, wind the exposed part of the leader into the empty canister. Once you do that... you're ready to shoot.
  
• Expose film for about 1-2 seconds in bright sunlight. Experiment with exposure time and keep a log so you can compare these to the images when you get them back. Then turn the receiving canister spool a full revolution (maybe a little extra to be safe) to advance to the next shot. Make sure you keep the camera still when making the exposure. Any camera shake will cause your image to blur.
  
• Once you reach the end of the film and can't wind anymore, wind the exposed film back into the original canister and process. When you take this to be processed, make sure you ask them not to cut the images. Some have automatic cutters and your spacing may not line up.
  

Most importantly… have fun, be creative, experiment and feel free to share your results. I’d love to see them!